In spring, the meadows of Parque del Monte Subasio near Spello in Umbria are smothered with a carpet of flowers and aromatic herbs; over 80 specimens of them in fact. It is here that peasants used to come after the harsh winter to forage for seasonal pops of flavour to brighten their soups, stews and rustic…
Kasbah Spiced Sweet Potato Hummus
As the sun dipped down above the High Atlas mountains, the pink plaster walls of the kasbah shone like bronze. The call to prayer from the Medieval Kasbah Mosque fell softly from its glorious minaret, the flickering lights from the Moroccan lantern threw jewels onto our table and, in the streets below, dozens of men and women…
Leyla’s Lyutenitsa (Spicy Red Pepper and Tomato Spread)
Leyla is a beauty and one of the most nurturing and interesting women I have ever met. She lives in a huge Bohemian apartment on the top of a quietly crumbling building with views of the Bosphorus and the Dolmabahçe mosque beneath. Books – and there are hundreds of them – are piled high upon ornate…
Jaffa Orange Blossom-infused Labneh
In his book, 88 Short Stories, the writer Guy de Maupassant wrote, ‘Did you ever sleep in a field of orange trees in bloom? The air which one inhales deliciously is a quintessence of perfumes. This powerful and sweet smell, as savoury as a sweetmeat, seems to penetrate one, to impregnate, to intoxicate, to induce languor, to bring…
Provençal Endive and Walnut Salad with an Orange and Oregano dressing
Weirdly, I am beginning to think about Autumn. I blame the jet stream which is currently acting as a shield preventing the warm air of the south from entering our northern climes. But the nights are drawing in too; gone already are the gorgeous long days of endless light and, come sundown, the candles are…
French Apricots Poached in a Syrup of Vanilla, Star Anise and Lavender-infused Rosé Wine
A much-loved element of French cuisine, apricots have been grown in France for hundreds of years. Right now, they are bang in season and I have no doubt that they are currently playing a starring role on the menus of countless neighbourhood bistros and brasseries from Brittany to Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur. This super simple recipe is an…
Turkish Biber Salçası and Yoghurt Dip
Whenever we are in Istanbul, I make a point of buying several hundred grams of biber salçası, a beautiful red pepper paste available in both hot (aci) and sweet (tatli) versions which is sold in giant wooden barrels in traditional spice shops. When we get home, I transfer it to a sealed container and keep…
Italian Spinach & Ricotta Malfatti with Sage and Lemon Butter
The word ‘malfatti’ in Italian literally translates to ‘badly made’ which is crazy really because these gorgeous little dumplings from Brescia in Lombardia are a thing of beauty being much more colourful and lighter than the traditional gnocchi you may be more familiar with. I like to eat these throughout the year but they’re especially…
Provençal Baked Goats’ Cheese and Herb Omelette
The revered food writer, Elizabeth David once said, ‘Summer cooking implies a sense of immediacy, a capacity to capture the essence of the fleeting moment’. For me, it’s all about taking a few humble ingredients and marrying them together with an abundance of fresh herbs to create simple suppers to be enjoyed in the sun….
Sicilian Tomato & Caper Salad
Sicilian capers are highly prized and widely considered as being amongst the finest in the world. This is because they are cultivated in the highly nutritious volcanic soil in perfect conditions – hot and windy – which gives them a higher acidity and a sharper bite than, say capers from gentler Mediterranean climates such as…
Cardamom and Dill 