Sultry summer evenings sitting opposite the church of San Francesco, a beautiful red brick and lime-washed building with cloisters of dazzling white stucco surrounding a sheltered rose garden humming with bees. When in Lucca, this is the place we are drawn to again and again for aperitivo. As the sun starts to dip behind the…
Category: Italy
Palermo Courgette Agrodolce with Garlicky Ricotta
It’s early morning in the historical centre of Palermo in Sicily and the markets come alive as giant red awnings unfold like sails to protect tables heaving with produce from the already dazzling sunlight. Buckets of foraged asparagus sit alongside bright bunches of wild fennel, battered aluminium pots filled with warm potatoes already cooked to…
La Cecìna Toscana, a Fermented Chickpea Flour Pancake with Rosemary
It always amazes me that having eaten breakfast in England we can be enjoying a late lunch in Italy looking up to the sun and taking in the aromas of the streets: jasmine blossoms and linden trees fighting for our olfactory attention against smokey Vespas, buttery patisserie, melting chocolate, over-ripe peaches, the pizzeria with its…
Neapolitan Buffalo Mozzarella with Zucchini alla Scapece and Borlotti Beans
‘Italian food is all about the ingredients, and it’s not fussy and it’s not fancy‘, so says Wolfgang Puck and this classic dish of Naples is a testimony to that. Zucchini alla Scapece is a zesty summer salad which, whenever I taste it, immediately transports me back to long lazy lunches sitting around a table heaving with…
Sicilian Mafalda Corta Pasta di Gragnano with Lemon, Roasted Pistachios and Wild Rocket
It’s early morning at the top of Mercado del Capo in Palermo and the stalls are already piled high with this morning’s catch glistening with seawater, a playful light casting myriad rainbows across the benches. Mountains of lemons piled into baskets, purple garlic, bunches of wild mountain fennel , briny sea salt, spicy red chillies,…
Umbrian Barley, Cavolo Nero and Lemon Soup with Pesto alla Genovese
High up in the hills of Umbria, winters can be long and very cold. A chilled silence wraps itself around the small towns and villages like a damp white cloak and the region falls into a kind of reflective slumber until Easter. Restaurants – at least those that choose to remain open after the feasting…
Minestra Aromatica, Potato and Arborio Rice Soup with Aromatics
This beautiful recipe is perfect for the early days of a new year when the desire for bright vibrant flavours vies for attention with the long walk towards the spring. This year, more than ever before, I have looked to silence and reflection these past few weeks, a quiet time in order to process everything…
Piedmont Gnocchi with Charred Purple Sprouting Broccoli and a Creamy Garlicky Sauce
I made ricotta, cavolo nero and lemon malfatti last weekend. By accident. It was gnocchi that I was attempting to make but the mixture was just too soft to shape and cut. No problemo, we love malfatti – an Italian term meaning ‘badly made’, even though it’s made with love and care – and I…
Umbrian Farro Pilaf with Fennel, Roasted Grapes and Mozzarella
Waking up in Umbria to a view of golden Autumnal vineyards, distant mountains and white mist, the church bells ring out across the valley as the market stall holders quietly prepare for their first customers. There are tables piled high with the region’s seasonal bounty including the last of the grapes, sacks of farro, lentils,…
Torta Caprese, a Classic Italian Chocolate and Almond Cake
Despite the terror – it’s real – of travelling along it, the road that sweeps along the Amalfi coast is simply beautiful. To one side is the glittering Salerno Gulf on the Tyrrhenian Sea and on the other sit the mountains with their high terraces of ancient lemon groves. The light is clear and white….
Cardamom and Dill 