“Wait. You’re telling me that you have never – NEVER! – eaten falafel?” he exclaimed, narrowly missing the turning onto Boulevard Rothchild as we made our way to dinner one impossibly hot and humid evening in downtown Tel Aviv. “No!” I replied, “I have never – NEVER! – eaten falafel!“. He looked at me with that…
Tag: Greek Yoghurt
Egyptian Mesa’a’ah, a Spiced Aubergine Dip with Tahini Yoghurt
Last weekend I made a plate of Egyptian fava bean falafels (ta’miyah) for the first time and they were, by far, the best I’ve made to date; super crispy on the outside and crumbly and moist on the inside. I’m tweaking the recipe at the moment but look out for it soon. To accompany them…
Amirim Lemon-scented Labneh with Zhoug
Labneh is a beautiful soft cheese simply made from strained yoghurt that can be eaten with pretty much everything but which is an especially good friend to rich and spicy mezzes. The first time I tasted it I was sat at a little linen-covered table on the edge of a vegetable garden in Amirim, an entirely vegetarian organic…
Levantine Labneh with Green Harissa, Roast Cherry Tomatoes and Dukkah
The nearer to Christmas it gets, the further East I travel for recipe inspiration. I suspect that this is greatly influenced by the boxes of dates we used to be given as a child. You may know the ones I mean, the box had a lacy paper lining and a bright label depicting the three…
Pera Garlicky Spinach with Yoghurt and Biber Salçası
After a bone-chilling day we literally fell through the doorway of Asmalı Cavit, a treasured wooden-fronted traditional meyhane in the centre of Pera in Istanbul. Here, the walls are lined with photographic portraits of people from a more glamorous age alongside vintage posters promoting wine, long forgotten theatre productions and the seaside resorts that were…
Greek Island Tzatziki with Dill and Mint
Originating from the Ottoman Empire, this is my version of the popular Greek dish, tzatziki (known as cacık in Turkey). It’s simply a bowl of authentic Greek yoghurt getting it on with little cubes of crunchy cucumber, lots of finely chopped garlic, briny sea salt, a generous glug of grassy Kalamata olive oil, an audacious…
Turkish Yoghurt with Mint, Pul Biber and Lemon Zest
Yoghurt is one of the most important components of the modern Turkish diet and, certainly in my experience, there is rarely a table where it isn’t featured in some form or other; as part of a main dish, or as a dip mixed with a copious amount of chopped herbs, in a dessert or even…
Hawaij Spiced Cannellini and Borlotti Bean Soup with Spinach and Greek Yoghurt
At Carmel Market in Tel Aviv – Shuk Ha’Carmel – all life is laid out for you to savour. Hemp sacks overflowing with dried fruit and nuts, small mountains of ultra-fresh fruit, vegetables and bunches of herbs tied up with string, hundreds of tiny kiosks providing shade for spice masters, street hawkers, bakers, florists, fishermen and…
Orange Blossom English Rhubarb Spoon Sweets with Greek Yoghurt, Pistachios and Lime
The Santorini I knew 30 years ago bore no relation to the glamorous image that the island portrays today. Of course it was absolutely gorgeous but life then was simple and the pleasures of eating almost elemental. The sweet little family tavernas that lined the beach were family run and featured daily menus written in…
Turkish Carrot and Garlic Yoghurt Salad
The stories that I tell are inspired by a lifetime spent travelling around the countries that kiss the coasts of the Mediterranean sea, by every restaurant and cafe I’ve had the pleasure of kicking back in; by the bustling markets, glittering delicatessens and traditional food stores that have sparked new idea; by the forgotten recipes I…
