It was coming to the end of a long and sultry day as I languidly eased myself upon a heap of vintage embroidered cushions, the candle-lit lanterns flickering in the warm early evening breeze of an Istanbul night. The background music was haunting as if it were calling me from a far away place. I…
Normandy Cheese and Onion Tart with Mustard and Tarragon
Although this classic savoury French tart originates from the Alsace region in France, this version is inspired by a misty autumnal day spent picking apples in Normandy before crisscrossing the Suisse Normande – a wild, hilly stretch of the Orne valley just to the south of Caen – in search of a bottle of aged…
Levantine Labneh with Green Harissa, Roast Cherry Tomatoes and Dukkah
The nearer to Christmas it gets, the further East I travel for recipe inspiration. I suspect that this is greatly influenced by the boxes of dates we used to be given as a child. You may know the ones I mean, the box had a lacy paper lining and a bright label depicting the three…
Persian Greengage and Orange Blossom Spoon Sweets
Continuing on the Persian theme – ergo my recent recipe for a beetroot borani – a fruit that we may consider as being quintessentially English is in fact a green-fruited wild plum from Iran which the British horticultural writer Anna Pavord referred to as ‘most ambrosial of all tree fruit’. I concur, greengages were my…
Persian Beetroot Borani with Yoghurt and Dill
Borani is a Persian yoghurt-based dip that usually includes cooked vegetables such as spinach or beetroot. There seem to be no precise rules in respect of the ingredients used but this version is one of my favourites. Ironically the first time I was served it we were sitting atop a candlelit roof-top terrace of a…
Sami’s Koosa Mahshi, Stuffed Peppers with Golden Sultanas, Pine Kernels and Amba Spice
A few years ago, I made a lone trip to Ephesus, a port city in Turkey which was once revered as the most important and largest metropolis of the old Mediterranean world. As I gingerly walked its dusty streets, my sandalled feet slipping on stones worn down by time, I noticed the signs etched into…
Palermo Courgette Agrodolce with Garlicky Ricotta
It’s early morning in the historical centre of Palermo in Sicily and the markets come alive as giant red awnings unfold like sails to protect tables heaving with produce from the already dazzling sunlight. Buckets of foraged asparagus sit alongside bright bunches of wild fennel, battered aluminium pots filled with warm potatoes already cooked to…
Santorini Fava with Lemon and Capers
In Greece, fava is a dearly beloved dish of puréed yellow split peas the most prized of which come from Santorini, an island that is also justly proud of its incredible tomatoes – check out my recipe for tomato keftedes – and its wine. You can thank the volcanic soil for that. Served at room temperature on a summer’s…
Greek Village-style Bread, Horiatiko Psomi
There’s always a freshly baked loaf on our table, something to mop up the juices of roasted tomatoes, to scoop up garlicky hummus stirred with rose harissa or to dip into a bowl of zing-fresh labneh and it’s such a pleasure to bake your own. I forget that sometimes. This recipe for a very simple…
La Cecìna Toscana, a Fermented Chickpea Flour Pancake with Rosemary
It always amazes me that having eaten breakfast in England we can be enjoying a late lunch in Italy looking up to the sun and taking in the aromas of the streets: jasmine blossoms and linden trees fighting for our olfactory attention against smokey Vespas, buttery patisserie, melting chocolate, over-ripe peaches, the pizzeria with its…
Cardamom and Dill 